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HOME > 農業経営者取材  > 新・農業経営者ルポ  >目線の揃う需要者との...

農業経営者取材 | 新・農業経営者ルポ

目線の揃う需要者との連携こそが食文化を守る  | 農業経営者 6月号 | (2009/06/01)

【(有)木村農園 代表取締役 木村憲政(愛知県稲沢市)】
経営者ルポ 愛知県は、今や貴重な食材となってしまった金時ショウガによる「はじかみ」の残された産地である。焼き魚のツマ物野菜として使われるはじかみは、人工着色された安い中国産の加工品に押され、この十数年で国内生産が激減してしまった。現在の市場価格では生産コストをまかなえないからだ。そんなはじかみを残していくため、(有)木村農園の木村憲政は、さらなる品質の改良とマーケティングに取り組む。

悪貨が良貨を駆逐する



風土に根ざした様々な食材と食文化が各地に受け継がれている。京野菜や加賀野菜などは、その代表例であろう。山形の赤カブ漬け、かぶら寿しや千枚漬けにするカブ、守口漬けの守口大根。菜っ葉、大根、胡瓜、瓜、茄子、大豆、枝豆等々、地域の在来種が固有の料理法とともに受け継がれている。しかし、すでに絶えてしまった食材や食文化も少なくない。

伝統的な食材のなかには、単に食味の高さだけでなく、彩りとして和食文化の美意識を表現するのに欠かせないものとして珍重されてきたものもある。「はじかみ(椒)」はその代表例といえるだろう。はじかみとは、同じ薬味のサンショウを指すこともあるようだが、今回紹介するのは金時ショウガの若芽である。端を噛むからはじかみなのかと思ったが、端が赤いことから「はし赤み」と呼ばれるようになり、それが転じてはじかみになったという説がある。また、その形状が弓矢の矢に似ていることから「矢生姜」という字を当てて「はじかみ」と読ませることもある。そして、今回紹介する金時ショウガの新ショウガは、色の白い「谷中ショウガ」とは別品種である。

世界中でショウガは薬味として使われているが、それは根ショウガだけ。軟化栽培して食材にしたのは日本だけの食文化である。

人工的な着色ではなく、素材そのものの真紅の彩りで魚料理を飾る金時ショウガのはじかみは、調理人の粋を感じさせる。しかし、このはじかみを生産する農家は、伝統産地である愛知県でもすでに14〜15人しかいない。木村憲政(62歳)は同県内でも4人しかいない専業のはじかみ生産農家のひとりである。

伝統野菜が現代に息づいていく条件とは何なのだろうか。個々の家庭に調理法や食文化が受け継がれていることもさることながら、その食材の意味を知り、食文化を商業化する事業者や職人の存在が欠かせない。しかし、そうした食文化を受け継ぐ担い手たちが、そのこだわりを捨ててしまえば、高級食材であるがゆえに消え去っていくことになる。愛知県の金時ショウガのはじかみも、そんな運命をたどってきた野菜のひとつである。

同じ品質のはじかみを人件費の安い中国で作って輸入されるというのであれば、生産者にとって悔しくともまだましである。だが、本家本元とは似ても似つかない人工着色された加工品が、圧倒的に安い価格で大量に流入し、それを食の職人たちが選んでいく。すでに若い板前のなかには、本物のはじかみは茎そのものが真紅の色合いであることを知らない者がいるかもしれない。その結果なのか、愛知県のはじかみ生産は今や風前の灯のような状況に追い詰められている。まさに悪貨が良貨を駆逐しているのである。

一般的にいえば、安価な商品が出てくることによって、かつては特別な人々だけの食材であったものが大衆化していくという過程がある。それ自体は、一般的には望ましい変化ともいえる。大衆化によって本物への関心も高まるのが普通だからだ。しかし、はじかみに関しては粗悪な加工品が本物を滅ぼしてしまいかねないのである。

粗悪な加工品に負ける悔しさ



木村は高校卒業後の就農以来、はじかみ作り一本でその農業人生を続けてきた。父の代に始まった木村家のショウガ作りは、木村が入ってその分だけ生産量を増したが、木村は一貫して大量生産よりも高品質を目指してきた。そのせいで就農以来、木村家のショウガ作りは文字通り儲かる農業だった。市場に出荷しても30本1束で千数百円から数千円という相場が続いていた。

しかし、転機が1990年代前半に訪れた。中国からの加工品が圧倒的な量で輸入されるようになり、それまでの売上が半減してしまったのだ。
(以下つづく)
Posted by 編集部 12:30

このエントリーのトラックバックURL:

コメント

こんにちは、私たちは、愛知県の岡崎市にある小さな料理屋です。
木村産のはじかみをきっと使わせてもらっていると思います。
はじかみは仕込が人の手でなければきれいに仕上がらないのですよね。薄い皮の中に入った砂を布巾で取って端を切ってさっと熱湯をかけてから酢にとりますとほんとにきれいに発色します。
でも、感動するほどの色合いはあまり長くは続きませんね。それがまた良いのかもしれません。
季の変化を楽しむ風流という粋な遊び、粋な食を、日本の文化としてよみがえらせて、エコな世の中にしたいものです。

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